Early English Renaissance Dress

Erasmus of Rotterdam, by Hans Holbein, 1523

When it comes to the subject of the English Renaissance, many scholars disagree as to whether or not there was such a thing. Indeed, C. S. Lewis, long time Oxford don, and famous for his Chronicles of Narnia, reportedly once stated that he himself had never found evidence of an English Renaissance, and that had there been one, “it had made no difference, whatsoever”. However, for those who do believe there was a Renaissance in England, most will say that it began with the reign of the first Tudor monarch, Henry VII who came to the throne in 1485.

1485, may have seen the start of the English Renaissance, but clothing during the reign of Henry VII, still bore decidedly Medieval characteristics. During these early years of Renaissance, England was still suffering the effects of the long and costly War of the Roses, which had depleted the resources of every Englishman, whether noble or commoner. Also, the slightly monkish tendencies of Henry VII, along with his dour mode of dress, did little to encourage thoughts of frivolity and large expenditures for clothing. This ‘awakening’ would come a few years later, when his son, became King Henry VIII.

So lets take a look at one of the articles of Medieval clothing still worn during the early English Renaissance. The houppelande, an outer garment, worn by both men and women, had first appeared around the end of the thirteenth century. The houppelande, as worn by men, would often vary in extravagance due to the fabric used to make it, and the type of trimmings adorning it, but basically adhered to one of two styles. It was either a loose, full-bodied robe, with long flared sleeves, or a more streamlined coat-like garment, with buttons down the front and a stand-up collar. The robe-like style persisted well into the seventeenth century, and is still present today in the gowns worn by English scholars and barristers.

The houppelande for women, also usually fell into one of two distinct styles. The first style being that of a slightly loose gown that hugged the body without being tight. It flowed gracefully down from the hips, was often V-necked, and had long, flowing sleeves that flared widely at the wrist, sometimes reaching to the floor. The second style consisted of a wide full skirt with a bodice that was attached to the skirt above the hips. The sleeves of this style were full, but not floor-length, instead they ended with elaborate scalloped edging, known as dagging. The intricacy and number of dags upon one’s sleeves were definite signs of one’s wealth and status.

It is not nearly so easy to find portraits of late Medieval and early English Renaissance dress, as it is for the clothing worn during the reigns of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I; those years are a treasure trove of paintings, featuring some of the most gorgeous clothes in history. The portrait above is Erasmus of Rotterdam, from 1523, by Hans Holbein, and is part of a private collection. I have used it here as an example of an elegant men’s houppelande, in the robe style.